Friday, July 28, 2017

Cutting Section and Factors Consideration before Cutting Parts

Cutting section:
Cutting is one of the major process in garments manufacturing. Here garments parts are cutting according to the pattern. In garments cutting department, a process flow chart have to maintained to send the right measurement parts in the next process for making quality garments.

Cutting section
Figure 1- Cutting section
Machine used in cutting section:
  1. Straight knife cutting machine.
  2. Cloth grill m/c ( used to attach all the lay so that they can’t move easily. It is used on the marker, outside the pattern area are caused fabric is burned due to use of this m/c)
  3. Auto layer cutting m/c
  4. Band knife cutting m/c
  5. Auto seal m/c ( used for numbering purpose )
  6. Pistol Sticker attach m/c ( used also numbering purpose where auto seal m/c is not workable )
Tools used in cutting section:
  • Clump
  • Fabric roll stand
  • Scale, pencil, hard paper etc.
Process flow chart of cutting section:
Figure 2- Working process flow of cutting department
You can also follow: Working Process of Cutting Room in Apparel Industry

Working procedure of cutting section
  • Marker Receives from The Pattern and CAD Department: Cutting section first receive marker from the Pattern and CAD department. According to marker fabric lay is cut by the cutting master. 
  • Cutting ratio received from Concern authority: Here cutting In-Charge receive cutting ratio from the concern authority or merchandiser, or production manager. 
  • Fabric receives from store: Cutting received fabric for cutting according to cutting ration wise fabric pre-requisition. 
  • Fabric wide measure: Before cutting fabric wide is measure to ensure fabric is more than marker width.
  • Fabric Spreading: After fabric measure, fabric is ready for spreading and creating fabric lay.
  • Marker placing on the lay: After creating lay, marker is placed on the lay for cutting. 
  • Cutting: Here cutting master cut fabrics lay according to marker.
  • Numbering: Here Cutting panel are numbered due to avoid shade variations.
  • Bundling: As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces with all component are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, size number and quantity of pieces in that bundle.
  • Cut panel inspection: In this stage, 100% cut panel inspected by the inspector here, mainly check weaving faults found or not on the cut panel.
  • Replace defective part: If found any weaving faults on the cut panel, replace cut panel immediately from shade matching fabrics.
  • Send to the sewing Line: In this stage, cut panel send to sewing section according to bundling.
Factors considered during marker making:
  • Nature of the Fabric: The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of the fabric should be considered during marker making.
  • Lay planning of patterns: Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus it should be taken under consideration.
You can also follow: Marker Making Methods in Apparel Industry
  • Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line: It is also another important factor that must be considered. The warp direction of a fabric is very much important for a garment and the grain line indicates the warp or wale direction.
  • Requirements of cutting: Before placing the pattern pieces onto the marker or during marker making the cutting allowances are considered where necessary and where is not. It may produce more wastage and may reduce the dimensions of patterns.
  • Production planning: Different types and sizes of garments manufacturing may run at a time in an industry. So during marker making it should be considered. 
  • Size of marker: During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the fabric, etc. 
  • Marker efficiency: It may be defined as the ratio of the total area of all the pattern pieces in the marker to the total area of the marker plan. It is expressed in percentage (%).
                                   Total area of the pattern pieces
Marker efficiency = ---------------------------------------------------- ×100%
                                  Total area of the marker paper

The higher the marker efficiency, the lower will be the fabric wastage i.e. least fabric will be required to make a definite number of garments. So increase in marker efficiency is very important. Efficiency 85%-90% is good marker.

About Author:
Mohammad Sajjadul Karim Bhuiyan
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology

You can also like:

  1. Working Process of Cutting Room in Apparel Industry
  2. Quality Control of Cutting Room in Apparel Industry
  3. Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machines Used in Apparel Manufacturing
  4. Working Process of Sewing Department in Apparel Industry
  5. List of Machines, Tools and Equipments of Sewing Section
  6. Marker Making Methods in Apparel Industry
  7. Methods of Pattern Making in Apparel Industry
  8. How to Make a Lay Planning in Cutting Room