Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Garment Analysis of a Basic Shirt

Garment analysis of a basic shirt is very important. This analysis must be help us to know about basic part of shirt measurements, different types of seam, stitch, sewing machine used, materials used, thread consumption, fabric consumption etc. 

Analysis of basic shirt:
We can easily analyze of basic shirt by following steps.

1. Different parts of shirt
2. Different type of stitch of the shirt and its analysis

  • Stitch density
  • Quantity of thread
3. Measurement of the garments
4. Sewing machine

  • Required of M/C
  • Number of each machine
5. Layout plan for this garment
  • Layout plan for this GMT floor
6. Thread consumption
7. Fabric consumption
8. Costing
9. Various wash

Different parts of basic shirt:

Different parts of basic shirt
Fig: Different parts of basic shirt
  1. Collar (right & left)
  2. Collar stand (right & left)
  3. Pocket
  4. Top center
  5. Sleeve (right & left)
  6. Cuff (right & left)
  7. Placket (right & left)
  8. Gain ball (right & left)
  9. Front part (right & left)
  10. Back part
  11. Button stand
Different type of stitch of the shirt & its analysis:

# Single needle lock stitch (stitch class-300)

  • Collar & collar stand
  • Cuff
  • Placket
  • Gain ball
  • Bottom
# Multi needle chain stitch (stitch class-400)
  • Button stands (kansai m/c)
  • Arm hole (one needle, stitch class-400)
  • Side seam (two needle, two looper, 4 thread)
# Multi needle lock stitch (stitch class-300)
  • Button hole
  • Button attaching
# Stitch density = 12-13

# Quantity of thread = 1


Measurement of the garment:

  1. Neck size = 15, 5/8
  2. Chest = 43
  3. Natural waist length = 8, ½
  4. Sleeve length = 33 (CBN)
  5. Cuff size = 9, ¾
  6. Cuff depth = 2, 7/8
  7. Across back = 18, 7/8
  8. Across front = 17, ½
  9. Armhole = 21
  10. Upper arm hole = 9
  11. Shoulder hip point = 27, 7/8
  12. Across shoulder = 19, ½
  13. Sleeve in seam = 20
  14. Sleeve opening = 8, ½
  15. Back length (C.B.L) = 30, ¼
Sewing machine:

a. Required of M/C

  1. Lock stitch (single needle)
  2. Chain stitch (kansai m/c, 4 needle, 4 looper)
  3. 2 needle chain stitch
  4. Button hole M/C (lock stitch)
  5. Button attaching M/C (lock stitch)
  6. Single needle chain stitch
b. No of machine:
  • Lock stitch (collar, collar stand, button stand, shoulder, cuff, pocket).
  • Chain stitch (kansai; top center 2 needle 2 looper)
  • 2-needle chain stitch: side seam, lapped (right & left)
  • Button hole M/C: button holing
  • Button attaching M/C: button attach
  • Single needle chain stitch: armhole
Layout plan for basic shirt:
  1. Front part (right & left) + back part attached by 2 needle chin stitch machine (2pcs).
  2. Pocket attach by lock stitch machine (1pcs).
  3. Sleeve join with front and back part by 1 needle chain stitch (2pcs).
  4. Front and back attaching with shoulder by 1 needle lock stitch machine (2pcs).
  5. Front (right & left) + back + shoulder join with collar stand by lock stitch machine.
  6. Collar stand + collar join by lock stitch machine (2pcs).
  7. Cuff join with sleeve by 1 needle lock stitch machine (4pcs).
  8. Placket joins with sleeve by 1 needle lock stitch machine (2pcs).
  9. Gain ball join with sleeve by 1 needle lock stitch machine (2pcs).
  10. Top center join with front (left) by Kansai machine (2-needle 2 looper).
  11. Button stand join with front (right) by lock stitch machine.
  12. Button attaching join by button attaching machine.
  13. Button holding by button holding machine.
You can also like:
  1. Mens Dress Shirt Measurement Guide with Size Chart
  2. Step by Step Polo Shirt Measurement Process with Size Chart
  3. Basic Pant Measurement Procedure